Georgia Driveway Pavers

Welcome to Davis Metal Georgia Driveway Pavers. We provide a holistic solution to all your paving needs get in touch with us if you require a trusted and specialist Georgia service enhancing your garden  and adding  a touch of elegance and practicality to your garden.  By laying down a beautiful patio will work with you to create the right style for you to a refined driveway a new driveway is not only a practical addition to your home but it’s an excellent way to add sophistication and style to three a quality service we’re not just about style we only use the best materials and completing projects for our customers to ensure our constructions will last for years to come our team of fully qualified and highly experienced designers and builders always offer a meticulous and superior quality service for we specialize in patio design and installation resin driveways brick paving sandstone paving fencing and much more by fencing at new impatient we also build and install a variety of fencing from economical to high-end traditional or modern as well as a first-class maintenance and repair service get in touch with new impaler’s today for a no obligation quote

How To Pressure Wash A Driveway

Davis Metals outdoor solutions installs pavers for both residential and commercial properties pavers add beauty and value to your property. let us install a beautiful paver walkway we install a wide variety  including brick pavers and concrete and stone pavers

Our process includes demolition/removal, excavation, soil compaction, roadbase installation, sand installation, brick paver installation, custom border stone installation, joint sanding and vibration, final compaction and finally, power washing.

All work is one hundred percent guaranteed patio pavers are low-maintenance and durable call us today for your free estimate.

I'm going to show you how to lay the basefor pavers. Before we can start to lay our pavers, we need to look at the tools and materialsthat we require. For a start we need a rake, we need a shovel, we need a wheelbarrow tocarry our road base, and we also need a plate compactor. In addition we need our tools likeour lump hammer, measuring tools. We need a spirit level, we need a straight edge. I'vealso got a drill and a hex head and hex screws, and we've got our form work of course whichis going to form around the perimeter of our area. I'm going to lay 100 to 150 road base in thisarea behind me. However, before I can do that I need to level this area and using a rakeI'm is going to start doing that right now. I've just raked this area to a reasonablelevel. Next I want to measure to the level of my road base. My reference point is goingto be the corner of this verandah here and that's where the level of my road base willcome. Next, I'll need to measure along that wall to pick up the area that my road baseis going to come to. Firstly, before I want to do that, I wantto make sure that the corner of the building here is square. Because if it's not, whenI lay my pavers later on, we're going to have pavers moving this way. So I'm just goingto grab my square over here and check that we've got a square area here. I've just measuredthe top and the bottom of that corner and the walls are nice and square. I'm now goingto use this straight edge and this level to get a level on all along the walls of thisbuilding and I'm going to use the top of this verandah as my reference point to run my straightline all around the building. Because we've got square walls, I'm goingto measure from this point here, this corner, which was the base line through to that cornerthere in the corner and then measure from the corner to the end of the wall and thatwill give me the measurements for my form work and for my nice square box. Now thatI've taken my measurements, I've rounded up to allow for any contingencies and I'm nowable to calculate the quantity of road base I need simply by working out the length bythe width and the depth of the road base. I took my measurements and now I'm going totrace to that to my form work. I'm now going to put my first piece of formwork in and it's going to butt up against the edge of that wall and I'll put a starpicket in to hold it in place. I want to make sure that this form work is going to be niceand level. So I'm putting my spirit level on the top and just make sure that it sitsstraight and level, and the bubbles in the middle. Next I need to pick up from this pointand put my second piece of form work in. I've taken my measurement from that corner to theedge of that wall. I'm going to trace for that now to this piece of form work here andthat will allow me to work out the distance between that corner at that point there andwhere it's going to intersect with this particular piece of form work there. I just want to makesure that my form work is square, so I'm going to use the square here on the inside of theform work and make sure that I do have that perfect square. And yes I have. Next, I want to make sure that this pieceof form work, which is going to stay here, is nice and firm and in place. I'm going toput some star pickets in. I'm going to remove this piece of form work and put it in lateron because what I need is a track to come through with my wheel barrow, dump my roadbase, and then compact it with the compactor. I want to make sure that this piece of formwork here is going to be firm and stay in place so I'm going to drop my pickets in variouspoints along the board and keep it nicely in place. To make sure that my form work staysin place, I'm going to use these hexagonal screws and screw the picket to the form work. I can now remove this one here, ready to roll my road base in. It's now time for the heavywork and I'm going to roll the barrows in and dump my road base in this area here andthen compact it. We've got our road base in place inside ourform work. And what I'm going to do now is just continue to rake it over and then afterthat, just to make sure that we've got a nice flat surface, I'm going to do a little bitof screening and then check it with the level just to make sure that it's all nice and flat. Handy tip, it's a good idea to wet the road base down. Two purposes, one it stops thedust flying up, and secondly it helps the compaction. I've just lifted the Pike compactor over ontothe road base and we're going to start the engine and start compacting. Well I've justfinished using the Pike packer to pack down and flatten the road by surface behind mehere and now it's ready for the paving side of it. However, before I start my paving,I want to make sure that my surface behind me is flat and even, and to be on the cautiousside I'm just going to take a couple of levels and make sure that it is absolutely flat surfaceso I end up with an excellent finish with my paving. Very good and looks like now we'reready for paving.

How To Remove Snow From Driveway Without A Shovel

Georgia Driveways come in a variety of shapes, sizes, colours and textures and with two methods of installation, there is sure to be a driveway edging, brick paving or concrete paver for your driveway project. A professionally installed job using top-quality pavers can run as high as $30 to $40 per square foot.

A properly installed and maintained concrete paver driveway can be expected to last 25 to 50 years.

heated driveway under pavers Outdoor paving is usefulfor a number of reasons. You may want to createa dry walking area, or give theentranceway a new look. There are a lot ofoff-the-shelf pavers available, but in some cases, it can bebetter to make your own paving because, for a similaramount of effort and cost, you can customize them tofit the exact area you need. So I'm going to show you howto make some exposed aggregate pavers yourself. So what I've got aresome horrible old stones. So what I'm going to dois dig all these out, and I'm going to make mypavers in between these areas. So what I'm thinking, I'm goingto have two pavers sitting here, two pavers sitting here. And what I think I'll do is laya continuation of these steps, a strip, one there. And now, almost like keeping thesame line as these pavers going across here, another two. Exactly the samedimensions of these. And then I'll just laya garden across here. Now, that's going togive us protection on the deck from the neighbors,give us a little bit of privacy also. Now, in betweenthese pavers, I think I'll put some nice, new,white stones around it. And that'll I'll outamongst the black pavers. First step, draw up a planwith all the dimensions. By 14. 45. I'm going to make my pavers75 millimeters thick. And also, underneaththat, I'm going to have 25-mill mill of finesto give a nice, firm base. So effectively, what I needto do is dig down 100 mill. To recap, I'm diggingdown 100 millimeters. This will allow for 25millimeters of fines as a base, and 75 millimetersfor the paver. Now, in thisparticular situation, all my borders are alreadydefined by this boxing. So if you're at home and youwant to do a strip of pavers down the middle of your lawn,what you might want to do is run a couple ofstring lines so you know the exact area thatyou're going to be digging out. Now, I was pretty luckyin this situation here. Underneath my oldstones were some fines. So I'm going to get thecompactor in here, compact that down. So that's around about25 mill of fines. Now, obviously, at home,if you just strike dirt, you're still going tohave to fill that up with about 25 mill offines, and still compact it. Now I've compacted that down. It's all looking pretty good. And I've startedlaying in our boxing in between where ourpavers are going to go. Now, a good littlerule of thumb you want to think about whenyou're laying your pavers. You want to be no morethan about 500 millimeters from the center to thecenter of your pavers. If you put them too farapart, you'll be striding. If you put themtoo close, you're going to do a wholelot of little shuffles. So what I've got here, acouple of bits of 3 by 3. I've nailed them together. And that's going to give memy exact width that I want, 90 mill. Now, a good little tip for you. I've just put a little chamferon the edge of that boxing. And that's just goingto help me pop it out. You could also put some, like,old engine oil or something like that on there. That'll help lubricateit and pull it out. So I'm just going toput my last one in. Now, there's a coupleof different ways you could attach this boxing. You could use nails. Come in through the outsidehere, and just leave the nail sticking outa slight bit so it's nice and easy to pull out. I'm just using somesquare-drive 3-inch screws. And they'll come outnice and easy, too. We're just about readyfor our concrete. The last thing we haveto do is cut our mesh. I've laid all my mesh. I've just got thelast place to cut. Now, there's a coupleof different ways you can cut this mesh. Either you use an anglegrinder, a hacksaw if you like, or you can just use these niceand simple set of bolt cutters. Now, a wee little tip. When you are cuttingyour mesh, you just want to make sure that you'reabout 40 to 50 millimeters away from the edge of your boxing. Once you've made sure allyour mesh fits the holes, remove it all before yourfirst pour of concrete. OK. I'm just about ready toplace in my concrete. Now, the type of concrete thatI'm using is just the stock standard dry mix,ready-mixed in a bag. Now all I have to do,tip that into a barrow or concrete mixer,and just add water. What I'm going to do isactually add some black oxide. That's going to give it areally nice dark color, sort of a charcoal color. Now, a wee little tip. What I'm going to do is addhalf the stock standard concrete into our pavers. I'll put my meshin, and then I'm going to top it up withour colored concrete. Two reasons for that. One, I'm going to savemoney on the black oxide. And two, I'm going to getmore color consistency over more steps withone mix in the barrow. Now I'm just going touse a vibrator just to make sure this concrete getsall the air bubbles out of it. I'm going to give it areally nice solid mix. It's not imperative. You could tap thesides with a hammer to get those air bubbles out. But this is a reallygood way to make sure we get a nice, solid pour. [MACHINE WHIRRING] Cool. So I'm just goingto add in that mesh. And then we'lltop it up a little bit later with a goodmix of our black oxide. I've mixed up some moreconcrete and finished off the rest of the pavers. Now for the black oxide. You just add it intoyour concrete to color. Follow the instructions on thepacket, pour it over your mesh, and concrete away as per normal. OK. I'm just using anold bit of timber to scree this off roughly level. And then I'm justgoing to finish it off with my magnesium trowel. I'm not going touse a steel float trowel to finish this off. It's going to bring up toomuch water at this stage. So all we need todo is use our timber and our magnesium trowel. Now, when you're usingthe edging trowel, it's quite of a fine linewhen you do put it in. You don't want toput it in too late. Otherwise, coinconcrete's already set. And you don't want to put itin early when it's too wet. So it's kind of a little bit-- probably about 20 minutesafter you place the concrete, throw it in there. Now, we don't need toget too fussy on it because we are going tobe spraying this later and exposing the concrete. So all we need to do isa nice little radius. Righty-o. Well, concrete's in. I've troweled it off. Now, what I'mgoing to do next is I'm going to spray someRugasol on the top. Now, Rugasol eats away at aboutthe top five to six millimeters on the surface. Now, that just eatsaway at all that slurry, and it gives a reallynice, exposed stone look. So what I'm going to dois just a wee little test first with my finger to seeif the concrete's dry enough for me to spray it on. So we just want to makesure that it's tacky so it only just comes offon the tip of our finger. Yep, that's looking really good. So what I'm going to dois use a spray bottle. And we'll give areally fine mist spray. We don't want toput truckloads on. Otherwise, it's going to eattoo deep into the surface. All we're looking for is to giveit a really fine mist spray. And then we're going to letit wait for about 24 hours. Next day, I'm going tocome and hose it off. Righty-o. Now I'm just going to do exactlythe same to all the rest. And when you're finished,make sure you rinse out your sprayer. Now it's been 24 hours. I'm just about toremove the top surface to expose the aggregate. Now, to do that, I'm goingto use a water blaster. I've got that set righton minimum setting. So I'm not goingto hit it too hard. Now, you can use agarden hose, if you like. You just want to take your time. Now, a couple of tips. Now, if you are workingnear any drains, you might want to puta silage or a hay bale in that gutter tocapture this top slurry. You certainly don'twant any of this to hit anywherenear any waterways. And I've got thison a fan setting, so we're just going to goreally nice and lightly. Next step isremoving our boxing. Now, we really just want totake care our time doing this. I'm going to pop thescrews out, and I'm going to give our boxing awee little tap with a hammer just to loosen itfrom the concrete. OK. Now I'm just going to repeatthe same process for the rest. Now you're ready to addyour finishing touches. I've decided on someblack stain for my borders and some white pebbles inthe gaps between my pavers. Check it out. There's our exposedaggregate pavers. As you can see, they lookgreat, and have helped finish off this area nicely. Plus, no more muddy socks whenyou're going to get the mail.

Whether you need bricks and stones for the outer walls of your residence, or traditional masonry for the construction of the inner walls of your residence, all Permacon products are revered for their durability and impeccable finish.

Most of the work is done manually so you can expect the average paver driveway to take as much as 5 to 7 days before being able to drive on it and use it.

Personalize your driveway by adding borders and accents to draw out specific colors from your home and create design continuity.

How Thick Should A Concrete Driveway Be

Hey guys Aaron I made an amazing discovery. We pulled the trigger on a big purchase yesterday. We've been researching intensely the different alternatives to making a drive way. We've cleared out the whole bamboo forest. Now, we're going till the ground. And. We researched different hard surfaces: cement, blacktop, pavers. And, they were all so much more expensive than what we could afford! We have roughly 1200 square feet to cover And, we want something that's going to be really durable. Because we might have the bus parked there for a year or two (while we're working on our conversion). So, Aaron tell them what we found. Every time we went to go look, to see what the cost would be for 1,200 square feet. Essentially, it's around about $10 per square foot. 1,200 square feet that comes out to over $12,000. That's more than our bus. Just for parking our bus. And I know some people say, 'Oh, just get gravel!' But you can't just put gravel in there. Because, that falls apart over the first couple times you use it. And, generally we want something pretty stable and something that's. We're looking long-term. Now. One thing that we noticed is there's a lot of videos online for for alternatives to concrete and whatever else. What we did find is that a lot of people use these mats, or whatever, that kind of stabilized gravel. And, that looked really cool. But finding those type of things around here is is kind of like, up in the air. I don't know where I would look for mats. Essentially, the big issue that we had from there on is. Well, what if these are also like, that much money per square foot? Like, how expensive are they? And then I started looking into alternative ways of doing that. And I found a company (the products on the way, it'll be here in like four days). (So, we're giving you an idea what's coming. ) We'll do a product review on it and everything. But essentially, it's the same thing as those mats. Except for, it looks like metal. And, it looks like these giant cross-hatches of it. And, wouldn't you know it, that it's. It's priced around, less than $1 per square foot. We were hoping to pay no more than about $2500 for a finished carport. I mean we're talking about everything like, you know. Having the ground done. Having the tools and everything. The resident tools that can pack the ground. All the little steps you have to take to kind of make one stable. Like, we expected maybe $2,500. It's totally wrong. $12,000 Was like, beginner. For the size that we wanted. And, when we say what we expected. Aaron and I, we sit down every step of the way. And we say, before we've even done research: What is it max you're willing to pay for this step? And then we look for ways to meet that. So, when we were researching the different types of concrete, and the different ways of doing a driveway. pavers. Everything else. We didn't even realize that it was going to be around $10 a square foot. We were looking for the best way of doing things, and we learned a ton about the pros and cons of that whole asphalt, concrete, paver thing. which was fascinating. And there's also a fear too, because we're about to park a giant bus on it. So, we can't. It's someone else's property. too. Really, it's mom's property. We don't want something that's gonna shatter or break apart the moment we drive on it. So, anyway this thing that we found is. it's pretty unique. As far as pretty unique, meaning. It seems like an alternative way of doing things. You essentially drive these giant grids that are like four inches deep. You put them in the ground. And then you fill them with either gravel or soil. It's like an accordion! You open it up, you put stakes on the side And then you fill it with turf or something. It's fascinating. Yes. Aaron found it! Okay So, this will give us a stability that if we literally couldn't afford any gravel, or anything like that. On top of what we've ordered, we could still fill it with dirt. They said that it's actually designed where we can fill it with frickin soil, and it'd be fine. You can fill it with grass and. it's not permanent. It can be removed, and it says that if you want to, you could actually pull these back out. So that they actually use these things. typically, they get ordered by people that have large machinery, industrial machinery, and they drive these things into the ground. Or they can dig them up and lay them down. And then refill them with dirt. So they can park big rigs and stuff on these things. This really should be like, awesome. This space we're parking the bus is adjacent to my mom's driveway. So, we've really been. mindful of the fact that we're extending off of an existing driveway. We just don't want to do something that's gonna be really awful for her in the years to come. We've spent about $1300 on this. Which is a fraction of what we thought we were about to pay to actually get this working. So. That leaves us room in our. In our budget for this. Yup. I mean, really. Again, $2500 is the max we want for the base of our carport. We are building the bamboo structure. But so, now that we've spent like, $1300 on the grid system, that leaves a little bit to rent tools. So, we have to hurry up! This driveway alternative material will be arriving. we think like, within the next week. So, our goal now is to rent the tools needed to kind of till up that land. I thought I could dig out the bamboo stumps, but we basically. After watching all of these videos about laying down driveways. people have said that only a maniac would try to dig up the ground. Yeah, yeah. Which, I'm kind of a maniac. It said only a maniac would try to dig up the ground with a shovel. And sure enough, we both tried. That wasn't even with bamboo. No that was with bamboo. Oh, was it? Yeah. Yeah, so Aaron looked at me and was like, Hmmm. Yeah, yeah. So, they were talk about bamboo specifically. And they said it's very hard to get up. So, we're super excited about this. We wanted to share it with you, and let you know this is coming. We will put a link in the description to this new product that we bought. And then, of course. we'll do a review showing you how we actually put it into the ground when it comes here. But I think this is revolutionary. I honestly think. Well, let's not get ahead of ourselves. This seems like the smartest way to approach this problem. We'll review the stuff. We'll let you guys know out what we think. So, that is coming. It's coming out of pallets. So, we'll see what it looks like! And we'll let you guys know. If you guys enjoyed this video, give us a thumbs up. There's a bell on the corner. If you hit that and you subscribe to the channel, you'll be alerted when new videos come up and that way you can see with this product looks like when it comes in. Thanks for watching. Bye, guys!.

How To Install Driveway Pavers

Building a paver or natural stone patio. Building a paver or natural stone patio. Ora walkway. can be a functional and beautiful addition to your backyardlandscape, and with proper planning, attention to detail and a little hardwork, you can achieve a long-lasting result, regardless of your skill level andexperience. Begin by marking the outside dimensions of the project area. Then, excavate to a depth of four to seveninches, with a shovel. Allow for two to four inches of acompactible underlayment base, 1 to 2 inches of paver sand for levelingand the width of the paver. Then install edge restraints. Edgerestraints are required to stabilize the pavers and prevent settling and shifting overtop. Edges should be set to allow for properdrainage, away from structures, and should slope evenly away fromstructures. One-quarter inch for every twelve feet is sufficient to allow for rain run-off. Evenly spread 2 to 4 inches of QUIKRETE All-Purpose Gravel into the excavatedarea. Then, level the gravel. Using a tamper, compact the gravel base. Spread 1 to 2 inches of QUIKRETE PatioPaver Sand over the compacted base. The Paver Sand willact as a leveling bed that the pavers will rest in. Use a twoby four and a one by one to construct a screedto level the paver sand to a consistent depth, equal to the width of the paver. Then,screed the sand smooth, removing the excess sand in front of thescreen and adding additional sand, behind the screed, as necessary. This will take several passes. Once yourbase is level, use stakes and a string for a straight edge, to align the paver rows. Starting in a corner, lay the paversoutward, maintaining a consistent joint widthbetween each paver. Then, tap and level the pavers in placewith a rubber mallet. Check to make sure your pavers aresquare and level, on a regular basis. Now that the paversare in position, the joints must be filled with sand tohold the pavers in place. QUIKRETE Powerloc Jointing Sand and QUIKRETE HardScapes Polymeric Jointing Sand are formulated with special dry polymerresin binders and are designed to lock pavers in place. Powerloc Jointing Sand can be used for paver joint widths up to 1/2 inch. For larger joints, up to two inches wide, and for use withnatural stone, HardScapes Polymeric Sand isrecommended. Simply sweep the polymeric sand into thejoints with a broom and remove any excess sand from the paver'ssurface. Make sure the pavers are clean and dry, before application. Then, apply a general fine water mist to the fill joints,flooding the surfaces of the pavers and allowing the water to saturate thesand filled joints. Dampen hourly, at regular intervals, for three hours after placement. Be sureto avoid flooding the sand onto the paver's surface. The joints will harden as they dry,usually over a period of several days, depending on temperature and humidity, creating a firm, durable paver joint. Oncehardened, QUIKRETE Polymeric Jointing Sand willprevent errosion insects and weed growth. The amount ofjointing sand you will need varies based on the joint width and paverthickness. A 1/2 inch joint will typically requireabout five bags per 100 square feet of paver area and two-inch joints will require up to 13bags per 100 square feet. Polymer resins are temperature-sensitiveso temperatures should remain over 35 degrees for a 12 hour period, after application.

All work is one hundred percent guaranteed patio pavers are low-maintenance and durable call us today for your free estimate.